Learning How To Color Correct Is Not Difficult! You Just Need A Great Teacher!
Updated: Mar 11
Today, I'm going over color correction for specifically for hyperpigmentation.
Let's take a closer look at what hyperpigmentation is:
Hyperpigmentation is a common, usually harmless condition in which patches of skin become darker in color than the normal surrounding skin. This darkening occurs when an excess of melanin, the brown pigment that produces normal skin color, forms deposits in the skin. (source: aocd.org)
It can show up as skin discoloration as dark spots, and uneven skin tone and usually happens after inflammation, like acne. Let's take my friend Geeta, for example. She struggles with hyperpigmentation under her eyes, around her temples, under her cheek bones, and neck and collarbone. Her pigmentation is genetic and was made worse over the years because of irritation from various products and sun damage. Rest assured, she now has a dermatologist helping her treat it. I always recommend seeing a dermatologist and/or esthetician to make sure your hyperpigmentation is normal and that you can treat it with their products or over the counter products.
Before I get into the how-to, I want to clear up something many people get confused about: Correctors are not concealers but concealers can be correctors.
I promise I'm going to explain! First what is the difference?
Corrector vs. Concealer
Corrector NEUTRALIZES pigmentation.
Concealer COVERS pigmentation.
Corrector "corrects" discoloration. If you look at the color wheel below, colors on the the opposite side of the color wheel cancel each other out, in other words, they NEUTRALIZE each other. You want to choose the shade of corrector, in this case orange, that is similar to the shade of your discoloration. The more severe the discoloration, the more vibrant the shade of orange.
Concealer covers blemishes, minor hyperpigmentation, and it evens out overall skintone. Your foundation or concealers are flesh toned and can be mixed with the corrector to make a correcting concealer. Many brands make their foundation and concealers with yellow, peach, or olive undertones that can cover discoloration.
But more severe pigmentation, whether it is under your eyes, melasma, rosacea or acne scarring - may need precise color correcting. Geeta's level of pigmentation is considered severe and needs correcting to cover completely.
Now For The How-to
1. Apply your choice of corrector ONLY in the areas that need it.
2. Blend and buff into the skin until the edges are blurred.
3. Set the corrector with a setting powder (with a very light hand). You can also use setting spray.
4. Tap/press on (do not swipe) foundation or concealer on top of the corrector you just set.
5. Finally, powder everything in place. Again, with a light hand. You can use another spritz of setting spray here if you need your makeup to stay on all day or are wearing a mask.
6. Finish the rest of your look - eyes, cheek, lips
Products used on Geeta:
Live Tinted Hue Stick in Rise
RCMA No Color Powder
NARS Light Reflecting Foundation (Geeta's shade: Stromboli)
NARS Radiant Creamy Concealer (Geeta's shade: Ginger)
To check out her finished look, head on over to my Instagram!